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for challah instructions for the bracha and a recipe, see, Baking Challah Kallah Magazine is pleased to present this special feature presented by Levana Kirschenbaum of the famous Levana Restaurant in Manhattan and author of Levana's Table, Levana Cooks Dairy Free, and In Short Order (book/DVD set). To learn about her cooking lessons and her books, or to order from the fabulous new line of spelt cookies, cakes, bars, and muffins, call 800•433•5423 or check out her website at http://www.levanakcooks.com for more information. You can access her blog at http://levanacooks.blogspot.com/
EASY
SUMMER ENTERTAINING The
preoccupation with dreaming up wonderful and easy summer dishes started
very
early this year for me. I found myself listening, rather incredulously,
to the
weather report on the news, one Thursday morning, and the forecast was:
Temperature
in the high eighties. We were in the last Shabbos of April, and I
thought to
myself, what’s up with that? What happened to spring? Sure enough, the
odd
prediction turned out to be accurate, and then some. So
we got a taste of summer heat early in
spring, and I planned my menu accordingly. “Yogurt” fruit soup The
mixture of soy milk and citrus juice results in that curdled texture
and tangy
flavor we look for in yogurt and buttermilk, and best of all, it is
pareve,
which means it’s a surefire hit in dairy-free meals. Just look in my
book
“Levana Cooks Dairy –free” and see all the wonderful stuff I whip up
with
non-dairy products the natural way! This
soup is wonderfully refreshing, and so pretty. It’s just the perfect
choice for
hot summer days because it requires no cooking! For optimal results,
fold in
the reserved diced fruit just before serving.
1/2 cup lime juice 4 kiwis 2 cups green grapes 2 wedges honeydew 2 granny smith apples 1 pound silken tofu 1/2 cup maple syrup 1 tablespoon grated lime
zest 1/4 cup mint leaves, packed Mix the soy milk with the
lime. Mixture will curdle. Set aside while you prepare the rest of the
soup. Dice half of the fruit small
and set aside. In a blender or fruit processor, in batches if
necessary, puree
the remaining half of the fruit, the reserved soy milk mixture, the
tofu, maple
syrup, zest and mint. Transfer the creamed mixture to a bowl. Fold in
the diced
fruit. Chill. Serve topped with a mint sprig Seared tuna with black
bean
corn salsa Cash in on the
great abundance of summer corn and tomatoes. Use fresh corn please; it
will
make the whole difference and it is a snap to prepare. Make sure the tuna is nice
and thick, or you
will risk overcooking it. Do not cook it a minute over medium rare.
2 cups canned black beans,
rinsed and drained 1 large tomato, seeded and
diced small 2 ribs celery, peeled and sliced
very thin 1/2 purple onion, chopped
fine. 4 large cloves garlic,
minced 1 tablespoon cumin. 2 tablespoons capers. 1/4 cup chopped flat
parsley. 1/4 cup chopped cilantro 1/3 cup olive oil. 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice. 2 tablespoons red hot sauce. 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil 2-3 tuna steaks, 1 inch
thick Salt and pepper to taste
If
you are watching your starch intake, or if you are simply, as I always
am,
looking for better grains, this is your chance to experiment with soba
or rice
noodles: Gluten-free and prepared in a snap, they will do the job with
flying
colors! 1 pound farfalle, boiled
until just tender, 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid reserved (rice or soba
noodles
great too) 8 large cloves garlic 1 large bunch flat parsley 1 large bunch basil, leaves
only 2 large bunches spinach,
leaves only, cut in thin ribbons Salt and freshly ground
pepper to taste 1/4 cup tiny capers Heat the oil in a large
skillet. In a food processor, grind the garlic and add to the oil.
Sauté the
garlic until golden and fragrant. While the garlic is frying, coarsely
grind
the parsley and basil, and add to the skillet. Sauté until wilted. Add
the
spinach and sauté just 1-2 minutes more, until all liquids evaporate.
Add the pasta
and reserved liquid, salt, pepper, and capers, and toss. Serve at room
temperature. I beg you, no garlic powder.
If, for Goodness only knows what reason, you don’t want to use fresh
garlic,
then it is better to not use any garlic at all, rather than ruin this
fabulous
dish with some mediocre ersatz! It takes so little to prepare, why not
spend
the full 2-3 minutes it takes to make it perfect? Nothing is more
delicious and
succulent than chicken breasts cooked the right way, which is, not
overcooked,
even by a second. Even if it looks slightly pink inside, remember the
residual
heat will reach the center in no time, and cook it to perfection.
3 tablespoons paprika 1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or
more, to taste 1 tablespoon cumin 1 tablespoon oregano 3 bay leaves Ground pepper to taste 3 tablespoons fine cornmeal 2 tablespoons olive oil 8 chicken cutlets,
medium-thick
Pour a few drops olive oil in a
large heavy
skillet. When the skillet is very hot, place the cutlets in, and cook
no more
than 2 minutes on each side. Serve hot or at room temperature, alone or
on top
of mixed greens very lightly tossed with a little olive oil and lemon,
sea salt
and pepper to taste (no need to make the dressing more complicated: the
chicken
is highly seasoned). Chocolate espresso mousse This
will take you about five minutes to prepare and will knock your socks
(and those
of your guests) off. Although it tastes sinfully rich, it contains no
eggs and
no cream. What’s the secret? The best chocolate, that’s what. If you want the best
taste, you must use real chocolate.
Do not substitute
chocolate “flavored” ingredients from affectionately called “heimish”
brands.
Those contain only a smidgen of chocolate and loads of sugar. Buy a good quality brand,
even a price club
brand will do, so long as it is real chocolate. Use good ingredients,
and taste
the difference! 1 cup semisweet chocolate
chips (or grated semisweet chocolate), only the best 2 tablespoons instant coffee
powder 1/4 cup water 2/3 cup pure cocoa powder. 2/3 cup sugar 1/4 cup vegetable oil 2 tablespoon brandy or rum
(unflavored please) 1 pound silken tofu, drained
and thoroughly dry. In a
small saucepan, on a
very low flame, place all but last ingredient, and cook, stirring,
until
melted. This will take about 2-3 minutes. (You could also microwave for
2
minutes). Transfer the mixture to a food processor, with the tofu, and
process
one full minute, until perfectly smooth. Pour the mixture into 6 to 8
dessert
glasses or cups, and refrigerate until firm, 2-3 hours. My favorite experience with dairy-free cooking came a couple years ago, when WB-11, the popular New York television station, invited me to appear on its morning show. The producers had heard of my wizardry with non-dairy dishes and wanted to do a blind tasting in which three of my dairy-free desserts would face off against their dairy counterparts. Talk about a triumph: The results of that little presentation were astounding. The tasters found that one of the desserts (an apricot mousse) tasted virtually identical made either way, while the other two (a cheesecake and a chocolate hazelnut mousse torte) were more delicious made without dairy products.
I believe that anyone, even the novice cook, can prepare virtually any dish without dairy products and come up with something delicious. I can, and I know that most other people can, too. But a lot of people don’t accept a sweeping statement like that. They believe that any meal that is traditionally prepared with milk or butter can never be as good if those ingredients are not present. This book proves just how wrong this assumption is – and the feeling of liberation it will give cooks no longer faced with major recipe restrictions will be wonderful to watch. How do I know this? Because over the past 29 years, as a cooking teacher, cookbook author and as owner of a bakery, a kosher catering business, and Levana Restaurant in Manhattan, I’ve learned a thing or two about dairy-free cooking. I had to because, like 50 million other Americans, I am mostly lactose-intolerant. And like my clients and an estimated 25 percent of American Jews, I observe the kosher dietary laws. This means that it is verbotten to mix meat and dairy in the same meal. Thus, in one fell swoop, I am recasting vast numbers of dishes and many delicious desserts which had been previously barred from many meals. Observing kosher requirements implicitly means I make sure not to use any of the products that purport to be dairy-free yet still contain traces of whey, butter and other banned ingredients, which suits the lactose-intolerant community as well. The truth is we all love dairy products, but that love is too often unrequited by our religion, our bodies, or both. My family, friends, customers and students are always clamoring for alternatives that are free of the offending ingredients. Although I give cooking demonstrations on every imaginable culinary topic, I get the most requests for dairy-free cooking. It is important to note that I do not use simple substitutions. For years, I have experimented and played with ingredients that most cooks have ignored, such as soy and all other non-dairy (rice, oat, grain, almond, coconut) milks, other soy products, nut butters, flours, and alternative sweeteners. For example, many kosher cooks feel they must use non-dairy creamer instead of milk products, or margarine instead of butter, and just accept the compromised flavor. I don’t think that’s tolerable at all, and so I have a different approach – one that uses only natural products. My number one theme is to demolish the notion that someone cooking with restrictions must rely on substitute ingredients that are “sort of” the same. No. Every ingredient I use stands on its own merits as a delicious, natural, wholesome addition to a recipe that a reader may not have thought possible. Lest you misconstrue the purpose of this book, I hasten to add that it doesn’t provide an excuse for having a field day emulating rich junk foods such as cheeseburgers, salami-and-cheese sandwiches, pepperoni-and-cheese pizza and Goodness knows what other calamity. I have no complicity whatsoever with the fast-food crowd. My repertoire is simple yet politically correct though and through, from a nutritional as well as a kosher standpoint. So, I invite you to enjoy my dairy-free renditions of your favorite treats without fear or guilt!
Sources: Rather than give you a long tedious list of sources for all non-dairy ingredients, I am referring you once for all to a wonderful book, Non-dairy Made Easy, just recently published, compiled by Alisa Fleming, who also started a major non-dairy site, www.GoDairyFree.com. As we share a passion for good and healthy non-dairy cuisine, it was only natural that our paths would cross. There is no consideration Alisa hasn’t addressed. Each item’s features are extensively itemized wherever applicable: whether it is organic, kosher, vegan, gluten-free, soy-free, dairy equipment, etc…, in short, everything you need to know: It’s all in!
Apple nut muffins his recipe gives you an unlimited opportunity to play with sweeteners, fruits, nuts, and flours (see below), making endless permutations and creating as large and nutritious a selection of muffins as you will ever need. See how it works? Eating this kind of muffin is actually a good kind of weakness, so don’t worry if your kids clamor for more! Makes 12 to 15 medium muffins
Vegetable spray 1 cup soy milk or any other non dairy milk (rice, oat, almond, grain) 2 large eggs 1/3 cup vegetable oil 1 cup dark brown sugar 2 Granny Smith apples, unpeeled, cored and grated coarse in a food processor 2 cup old-fashioned oats 3 cups all purpose flour 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup raisins 1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans 1 teaspoon cinnamon
Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Spray a 12-cup muffin tin with vegetable spray. Combine the milk, eggs, oil, brown sugar and apples, and mix thoroughly. In another bowl, combine the oats, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, raisins, and nuts. Add the dry mixture to the milk mixture. Combine gently but thoroughly with a spoon, taking care not to over mix, which would toughen the batter. Pour the batter into the prepared muffin pans. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
All substitutions in equal amounts:
To make a loaf: This batter will make a delicious bread loaf. Bake in a greased loaf pan in a preheated 350 ºF oven, 45 minutes to one hour, until a knife inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean.
Babka.
This yeasted pastry bears an affectionate name in every language (brioche, kugelhopf, kokosh, etc…) and varies only slightly in preparation from one culture to another, but whatever you call it, it is always fabulous, even without the butter and the milk. Do not hesitate to double, even triple the recipe, as it freezes very well.
Makes 8 servings
1 envelope dry yeast. 1/4 cup warm water 1/3 cup sugar or honey
2 3/4 cups flour, plus a little more if needed 1/4 cup oil, plus a little more for brushing 1/2 cup soy or other non-dairy milk (rice, oat, grain, almond) 1 egg 1/3 teaspoon salt
Topping (optional) 1 tablespoon oil 1/4 cup flour 3 tablespoons sugar
Mix the yeast, water and sugar in a cup and let the mixture come to a bubble, a minute or two. Put all the other ingredients in a mixing bowl. Add the yeast mixture and combine. Transfer to your dough maker and knead 10 minutes, or knead by hand. Let the dough rise, covered, in a warm draft-free place one hour. Preheat the oven to 350 ºF. On a very lightly floured board or counter, roll out the dough into a thin, 20- by 8-inch rectangle. Brush the whole surface very lightly with oil. Sprinkle or spread the filling on the whole surface (recipes follow). Roll very tightly. Transfer to a greased loaf pan. Mix the topping ingredients, and sprinkle over the babka (If not using the topping, simply brush with a mixture of egg and water). Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until golden.
Fillings: Chocolate: Melt 2/3 cup very good quality real chocolate chips with 1 tablespoon oil. Cinnamon-raisin: In a food processor, process until coarsely ground: 1/2 cup golden raisins, 1/3 cup walnuts, 1/4 cup brown sugar, 1-2 teaspoons cinnamon. Jam: 1 cup good black currant, strawberry or raspberry preserves thinned with 2-3 tablespoons orange juice.
Red pepper and zucchini frittata.
Frittatas are nothing more than giant deep-dish omelets, cut into wedges. Although the principle is always the same – pour a mixture of milk and eggs over sautéed vegetables, start it on a stovetop and finish it in the oven- the variations are endless. Use any filling that appeals to you, combining 2-3 items: sautéed leeks, mushrooms, spinach, kale etc…; grated “Vegan-Rella” cheese; boiled cubed potatoes; cubed smoked turkey or cooked chicken; minced fresh herbs such as chives, dill, parsley, chervil. Frittatas are delicious hot or cold, and make a great main course as well as great hors d’oeuvres, cut in small squares.
Makes 6 main course servings.
1/4 cup olive oil 1 large onion, diced small 4 cloves garlic, minced 1 large red bell pepper, diced small 3 thin zucchini, diced small 3 tablespoons flour, any flour 1 cup soy or any non-dairy milk (rice, almond, grain, oat) 1/4 cup dry vermouth (liquor stores) or sake (health food stores) 1/4 cup basil leaves, packed, chopped Good pinch nutmeg Salt and pepper to taste 8 eggs, lightly beaten
Preheat the oven to 375 ºF. Heat the oil in an oven-proof skillet, about 10 inches in diameter. Add the onion, garlic, pepper and zucchini, and sauté until all liquids evaporate. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and the milk until smooth. Add the remaining ingredients and whisk. Pour uniformly over the sautéed mixture in the skillet and cook on a medium-low flame about 5 minutes. Transfer to the oven and bake another 12 to 15 minutes, until puffy and barely set. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Corn and Salmon Chowder
Funky meets elegant. With a good baguette and a leafy salad, this chowder makes a different and delicious meal in itself. Try your best to use fresh corn. Scraping off the kernels couldn’t be easier. Stand each ear on a plate and use a sharp knife to scrape off the kernels, cutting as close to the cob as you can.
Box: Anchovies: Don’t tell your guests that this dish, or any dish for that matter, contains anchovies until after they polish it off. The anchovies disperse in the soup and leave no trace of their controversial heritage except for a deep, smoky flavor. I’m reminded of a wonderful headline from The Philadelphia Inquirer: “Anchovies: A blessing if disguised.”
Box: Saffron. Saffron threads are the stamen of the crocus flower, and can be harvested only by hand, hence their reputation for being so costly. The good news is, you can ignore all those tiny, exorbitantly priced vials, and get yourself an ounce box at any specialty food store, which will be about twenty times cheaper and will last you about a year!
Makes about 12 servings.
1/4 cup olive oil 3 leeks, white parts only, washed thoroughly and sliced 1 medium onion, quartered 4 ribs celery, peeled 6 large cloves garlic 1 small bunch flat parsley, stems and all, minced 2 quarts (8 cups) water 2 cups dry white wine 1/4 cup packed anchovies, rinsed 4 cups corn kernels, preferably fresh, from about 6 ears of corn (use frozen if necessary) 2 good pinches saffron 6 bay leaves Salt (you might not need any. If you do, add more rinsed anchovies) and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 cups soy or other non-dairy milk (rice, grain, oat, almond) Good pinch nutmeg Good pinch cayenne 3 pounds salmon filet cut in 1-inch cubes 1 pound mock crab flakes (optional, but delicious. A natural fish product), chopped 2 cups Tofutti brand soy sour cream
Heat the oil in a large heavy pot. In a food processor, in batches if necessary, coarsely grind the leeks, onions, celery, garlic, and parsley. Add the ground mixture to the hot oil and sauté until translucent. Add the water, wine, anchovies, corn, saffron, bay leaves, salt, and pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce to medium and cook, covered, for about 30 minutes. Add the soy milk, nutmeg, and cayenne, and cook until just hot, but do not boil or the mixture might curdle. Using an immersion blender dipped directly into the pot, purée about one-third of the soup, leaving the rest chunky. Add the salmon cubes and the mock crab, if using, and sour cream, and cook for 1 to 2 more minutes, stirring gently to incorporate all additions. Serve hot.
Pizza Puttanesca.
I used to have qualms about making non-dairy pizza at my demos, fearing my students might find my suggestion slightly disingenuous, until one of them recently exclaimed to me vehemently: “Why can’t we find cheeseless pizza in the States, just as we do in Europe? Where is it written that pizza must always have cheese?” That just did it. That’s right: Traditionally, only a few pizza varieties are topped with cheese, or even tomatoes, and there are quite a few wonderful toppings you can choose from: olives, anchovies, onions, artichoke hearts, eggs, roasted peppers, mushrooms, meatballs, you just name it. I will offer my favorite topping (which doubles as a great pasta sauce), then let you use your imagination, including adding a cup or more of grated “Vegan-Rella” cheese if you like. Either way nothing will beat the fun and flavor of homemade, nothing! In a pinch use some store-bought frozen and thawed pizza dough, and just make the sauce.
Makes a dozen servings.
Dough: 2 tablespoons dry yeast 2 cups warm water 1 tablespoon sugar 5 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup olive oil
Mix the yeast, water and sugar in a bowl. Let the mixture “proof” about 5 minutes, it will start bubbling. Add the remaining ingredients. Turn out onto a lightly floured board and knead by hand or in a dough maker about 10 minutes. Cover the dough and let it rise about 1 hour in a draft-free place. Roll out the dough very thin (about 1 large greased cookie sheet or 2 greased 16” round pans), leaving a slightly thicker rim all around. Preheat the oven to 475 ºF. Spread the sauce (recipe follows) on the dough, leaving the rim blank. Bake about 15 minutes. If using the cheese, add it in the last 5 minutes of baking. Cut in wedges and serve hot.
Puttanesca sauce: 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 large onion, chopped 8 large cloves garlic, minced 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup sun-dried tomatoes, briefly soaked in warm water, and cut into strips 3 cups canned crushed tomatoes 1/4 cup capers 1/2 cup oil-cured black olives, halved A dozen anchovies, thoroughly rinsed 1/2 cup basil leaves, minced 2 tablespoons oregano Good pinch red pepper flakes Salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste (taste the sauce before you add any salt)
Optional: About 1 cup grated “Vegan-Rella” to taste
Heat the oil in a heavy pan. Add the onions and fry until translucent. Add the garlic and fry 3 more minutes. Reduce the heat and add all remaining ingredients. Cook covered on a medium flame about 10 minutes.
Foccacia: Roll the dough about 1/2 inch thick and place in a greased cookie sheet. Brush lightly with olive oil, and sprinkle with sea salt, minced fresh onion or garlic (optional) and chopped fresh rosemary. Poke the dough all over with your finger to make indentations. Bake in a preheated 400º F about 20 minutes.
Tilapia stuffed with spinach and pine nuts
This stuffing is so fabulous you might consider using it for chicken breasts as well or, quite simply, as a sauce for pasta, thinned with a little non dairy milk or white wine. Do not skip the pine nuts as they add a wonderful layer of flavor. For a more dramatic presentation, you might want to consider stuffing a whole large fish such as trout or bass, and proceed with the recipe (in this case, bake one hour). If you are serving this dish as a first course, simply halve each roll.
Makes 8 main course servings.
Spinach stuffing: 1/4 cup olive oil 1 large onion, quartered 4 large shallots, peeled 6 large cloves garlic, peeled 1 red pepper, seeded and quartered 1 small bunch parsley 1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped 1 10-ounce box frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed thoroughly dry 1/4 cup basil leaves, packed, chopped 1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted 10 minutes in a 300 ºF oven 1/2 cup “Vegan-Rella” cheddar cheese Good pinch nutmeg Salt and pepper to taste
8 fillets of tilapia, about 6 ounces each Vegetable spray paprika
Preheat the oven to 375 ºF. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet. In a food processor, coarsely grind the onion, shallots, garlic and parsley, and add to the skillet. Sauté until most of the liquids evaporate. Add the tomato and fry one more minute, until all liquids evaporate. Transfer the mixture to a bowl. Add the remaining stuffing ingredients and mix thoroughly. Stuff each fillet with some of the mixture and roll tightly. Place the fillet seam side down in a baking dish just large enough to hold all the fillets in one layer, so the stuffing doesn’t ooze out. Repeat with the remaining fillets and stuffing (you might have a little stuffing leftover). Spray the rolls with vegetable spray and sprinkle with paprika. Bake about 30 minutes, or a little longer, until the fish flakes easily. Serve hot, or at room temperature.
Lemon coconut tart
Another wonderful treat I created with the help of tapioca flour. And of course how can I miss, pairing lemon and coconut? You will love to make this tart, because you can both bake the crust fully and make the filling even two-three days ahead of time, and assemble it on party day. Topping it with toasted coconut intensify the coconut flavor and gives it a dramatic presentation. Have you noticed that coconut lovers cannot imagine there is anyone out there who is not crazy about coconut?
Pie dough: 1/2 cup natural non-hydrogenated margarine (health-food stores), at room temperature 1/2 cup sugar Pinch salt 2 eggs 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 tablespoon lemon zest 2 cups flour
Lemon coconut filling: 1 cup sugar 1/3 cup tapioca flour Pinch salt 2 tablespoons lemon zest 1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, strained 3 tablespoons rum or brandy 2 eggs 1 15-ounce can coconut milk 1 1/2 cups sweetened grated coconut
1/2 cup sweetened grated coconut , toasted about 12 minutes in a 300 ºF oven
Preheat the oven to 350 ºF. Make the pie shell: With an electric mixer, cream the margarine, sugar and salt until light. Add eggs one at a time and cream until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla extract, zest and flour and mix just a few more seconds. Spread the dough uniformly in an 11-inch spring form pan, coming up the sides. Crimp the edges all around with 2 fingers. Pierce the bottom all over with a fork. Bake 40 minutes or until golden brown. Let the crust cool completely. Make the filling: Put a small pot of water to boil. Reduce the heat to low, and keep the water at a simmer. Place a bowl on top of the water, and put in the sugar, tapioca, salt, zest, lemon juice and rum, whisking (beating with an electric mixer will work very well, too). When hot, add the eggs, whisking constantly until thick. Add the coconut milk and whisk only until the mixture looks smooth. Take the bowl off the double boiler, and stir in the coconut. Let the mixture cool completely, and pour into the baked crust. Chill. Sprinkle with the toasted coconut just before serving.
Creme caramel.
We grew up with this very unpretentious and delightful dessert, which my mother used to whip up on lazy Sunday afternoons. Caramel, eggs and milk are practically all it takes. I add non dairy milk powder and a little oil to augment the milk fats in the dish and make it come close to the cream-rich original. You won’t be able to discern the difference! The trick with this dish and all egg-based dishes is to bake it until just barely set, as further heating would toughen the custard.
Makes about 10 servings.
Caramel: 3/4 cup sugar 1/4 cup water
Batter: 4 cups whole soy or other non-dairy milk (rice, oat, grain, almond), heated to just below boiling 1 cup soy or rice milk powder 1/4 cup vegetable oil 1/4 cup white corn syrup 1/4 cup sugar 2 tablespoons vanilla extract 8 eggs
Preheat the oven to 350 ºF. Make the caramel: Heat the sugar and water on a medium-low flame in a small saucepan, undisturbed, for about 5 minutes. It will turn a deep amber brown. Immediately turn off the heat (as sugar could go from just done to burned in no time) and very carefully pour into a round ring mold or 8 ramekins. Quickly swirl the sugar in the molds to let it cover the bottoms and come about half an inch up the sides. Make the batter: Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until completely smooth (or place all the ingredients in a glass bowl and use an immersion blender). Pour the mixture into the mold or ramekins. Place the mold or ramekins in a baking pan containing just enough hot water to come up one third of the height of the molds. Bake about 40 minutes. Let the dessert cool. Unmold by loosening the sides with a knife, then putting a rimmed dish slightly larger than the mold against the opening and flip onto the dish. The caramel will arrange itself beautifully around the custard.
Variations: Lemon crème caramel: Reduce the milk to 31/2 cups and add 1/2 cup lemon juice and 2 tablespoons fresh lemon zest. Coffee crème caramel: Add 2 tablespoons instant coffee powder to the batter and 3 tablespoons rum or brandy. Chocolate crème caramel: add 1/4 cup cocoa powder and 1/3 cup semisweet real chocolate chips to the milk while it is still very warm to dissolve them completely. The article above originally appeared online in the OU’s Shabbat Shalom newsletter (www.ou.org). Reprinted with permission
FRENCH ONION SOUP
Please do NOT buy the cheeses already grated or shredded, they are tasteless; buy chunks and grate them, it only takes a minute. Use the food processor to slice the onions and shallots and mince the garlic.
1/3 CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL. 2 LARGE ONIONS, SLICED VERY THIN. 4 LARGE SHALLOTS, SLICED VERY THIN. 2 LARGE LEEKS, WHITE PARTS ONLY, SLICED VERY THIN 6 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC , MINCED. 3 TABLESPOONS SUGAR. 2 CUPS DRY RED WINE (LIQUOR STORES) 1/3 CUP DARK MISO PASTE (HEALTH FOOD STORES) 6 SPRIGS THYME, LEAVES ONLY. 2 1/2 QUARTS (10 CUPS) WATER. 1 CUP GRATED SWISS CHEESE. 1 CUP SMOKED CHEESE, CUT IN SMALL CHUNKS. 1 CUP GRATED PARMESAN. GOOD PINCH NUTMEG. SALT AND FRESHLY GRATED GROUND PEPPER. (USE THE SALT SPARINGLY IF AT ALL, THE CHEESES AND THE MISO ARE ALREADY SALTY) A DOZEN SLICES BAGUETTE, CUT ON BIAS, TOASTED. (375 DEGREES OVEN, FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES, UNTIL LIGHT BROWN)
HEAT THE OIL IN A HEAVY POT, AND IN IT FRY THE ONIONS, SHALLOTS, LEEKS AND GARLIC ON A MEDIUM FLAME, ABOUT 30 MINUTES, UNTIL DARK. ADD THE SUGAR AND COOK TWO MORE MINUTES UNTIL CARAMELIZED. ADD WINE, MISO, THYME, WATER AND COOK ANOTHER 30 MN. ADD THE CHEESES, NUTMEG, SALT AND PEPPER, AND COOK ANOTHER MINUTE, UNTIL ALL MELTED. ADJUST CONSISTENCY AND SEASONINGS. TO SERVE: POUR INTO SOUP BOWLS AND FLOAT ONE SLICE BAGUETTE TOAST IN EACH BOWL. ABOUT 12 SERVINGS.
STRIPED BASS STUFFED WITH SPINACH AND FETA.
1/4 CUP OLIVE OIL. 1 LARGE ONION, QUARTERED. 4 LARGE SHALLOTS, PEELED. 6 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC, PEELED. 1 RED PEPPER, SEEDED AND QUARTERED. 1 SMALL BUNCH PARSLEY. 1 LARGE TOMATO, PEELED, SEEDED AND CHOPPED. 1 BOX FROZEN SPINACH, THAWED AND SQUEEZED THOROUGHLY DRY. 1/4 CUP BASIL LEAVES, PACKED, CHOPPED. 1/2 CUP FETA CHEESE, CRUMBLED. PINCH NUTMEG SALT AND PEPPER TO TASTE.
1 5 POUND STRIPED BASS, OR 2 MEDIUM, BUTTERFLIED, HEADS OFF, ALL BONES OUT, THOROUGHLY WASHED AND PATTED DRY. 1 TABLESPOON OLIVE OIL.
PREHEAT OVEN TO 375 DEGREES. HEAT THE OIL IN A HEAVY SKILLET. GRIND THE ONION, SHALLOTS, GARLIC AND PARSLEY COARSELY IN THE FOOD PROCESSOR AND ADD TO THE SKILLET. SAUTE UNTIL MOST OF THE LIQUIDS EVAPORATE. ADD THE TOMATO AND FRY ONE MORE MINUTE, TILL ALL LIQUIDS EVAPORATE. TRANSFER MIXTURE TO BOWL. ADD REMAINING INGREDIENTS AND MIX THOROUGHLY. STUFF THE FISH WITH MIXTURE AND FOLD TO CLOSE. PLACE IN BAKING PAN JUST LARGE ENOUGH TO HOLD THE FISH. SCORE THE FISH ON BOTH SIDES AND RUB IT WITH THE OIL. BAKE ABOUT 30 MINUTES, UNTIL THE SKIN LOOKS GOLDEN AND CRISP. SERVE HOT.
LEMON CAKE.
1 1/2 CUPS SUGAR. 1 CUP BUTTER, AT ROOM TEMPERATURE. 3 EGGS. 3 CUPS FLOUR. 1/2 TEASPOON BAKING SODA. 1 CUP BUTTERMILK OR PLAIN YOGURT 2 TABLESPOONS LEMON ZEST. 2 TABLESPOONS FRESH LEMON JUICE.
PREHEAT OVEN TO 325 DEGREES. BEAT SUGAR AND BUTTER UNTIL LIGHT AND FLUFFY. ADD EGGS 1 BY 1 AND BEAT. MIX FLOUR AND BAKING SODA IN A BOWL. MIX BUTTERMILK, LEMON ZEST AND LEMON JUICE IN ANOTHER BOWL. ADD FLOUR MIXTURE AND BUTTERMILK MIXTURE ALTERNATELY, BEGINNING AND ENDING WITH FLOUR, BEATING EACH TIME ONLY UNTIL JUST COMBINED. BAKED IN GREASED TUBE PAN OR LONG LOAF PAN, ABOUT 1 HOUR OR UNTIL POINT OF KNIFE INSERTED IN CENTER COMES OUT CLEAN. PRICK HOLES ALL OVER CAKE WITH TOOTHPICK WHILE HOT AND POUR SYRUP (RECIPE FOLLOWS) ALL OVER CAKE. SERVE WITH THE SAUCE ON THE SIDE
LEMON SYRUP: 1/3 C LEMON JUICE. 2 TBSP LEMON ZEST. 1/3 C SUGAR. 1/4 CUP BUTTER.
COOK ALL SYRUP INGREDIENTS TILL SYRUPY, ABOUT 5 MINUTES
BERRY SAUCE
1 12 OUNCE BAG UNSWEETENED FROZEN RASPBERRIES. 1 CUP CRANBERRY JUICE. 1/4 CUP CRÈME DE CASSIS (LIQUOR STORES: LEROUX HAS A GOOD SUPERVISION) 1/4 CUP FRESH LEMON JUICE. 1 TABLESPOON CORN STARCH, MIXED WITH A LITTLE WATER UNTIL DISSOLVED.
BRING ALL BUT LAST INGREDIENT TO A BOIL. ADD CORN STARCH MIXTURE AND COOK, STIRRING, UNTIL JUST THICKENED. COOL COMPLETELY BEFORE SERVING.
The Art of the Brunch Chefs are a funny bunch. Their idea of a day off is not, as you might think, staying away from the kitchen. Au contraire! I am always amazed when the chef at my restaurant describes the meal he and his wife enjoyed at a different restaurant on his day off or of the dinner party he prepared for friends. One of my recurrent dreams, as a restaurant owner and cooking teacher, is to open a kosher version of Sarabeth’s Kitchen, the popular chain of restaurants which utilize the best ingredients and serve renowned brunches. Why do I love the concept of brunch so much? Beside the absence of meat dishes, the kosher brunch dining experience encompasses absolutely everything else at one time. I call it brunch a toute heure (brunch anytime) And so egalitarian: the lines between breakfast, lunch and dinner are totally blurred, and we are left with one continuous and wonderful meal, with infinite variations, available in short order at all times of day. Popular brunch dishes include crepes, muffins, soups, smoothies, omelets, salads, and fish. I would go as far as saying that during the week, brunch-style foods are the bulk of my family’s diet at home. For those of us who tolerate little or no dairy, brunch dishes can be adjusted to include pareve variations made with soy-based products. The benefit of hosting a brunch is that this type of meal can be as modest or as glorious as you like, there is ample room to adjust the caliber. In my catering days, I remember fabulous brunches we created—everything from wedding brunches to small get-togethers in private homes. Another reason why I love brunch is that these dishes share a valuable common point: they can be made at a moment’s notice. A simple and stunning brunch menu may consist of zucchini bread, fresh fruit smoothies, salmon tartare, spinach frittata, and ricotta cream with berries, all of which can be prepared in a little over an hour. I learned of the beauty behind brunch foods many years ago when I picked my son up from a play date at a friend’s house and asked him (in earshot of the mother!) what he had for dinner. His answer was: “Mommy, it was so much fun. For dinner we had breakfast—pancakes!” His point was clear: the uncomplicated, yet delicious comfort foods we crave—pancakes, eggs, potato hash, quick breads—and other fabulous brunch dishes are always a few minutes away. I am including a few of my favorite brunch treats, some classics adaptable to our contemporary palate and various diets. The following brunch menu will take you slightly over one hour from start to finish, and will serve 8 guests generously.
ZUCCHINI BREAD 3 CUPS FLOUR. 3/4 CUP SUGAR. ½ CUP CHOPPED WALNUTS. 1 TABLESPOON BAKING POWDER. 1 TEASPOON SALT. 4 EGGS 1/2 CUP OIL. 2 CUPS GRATED ZUCCHINI, PACKED 1 TABLESPOON GRATED LEMON ZEST
PREHEAT OVEN TO 350 DEGREES. THOROUGHLY COMBINE FLOUR, SUGAR, WALNUTS, BAKING POWDER AND SALT IN A MIXING BOWL. THOROUGHLY COMBINE EGGS, OIL, ZUCCHINI AND LEMON PEEL IN ANOTHER BOWL. COMBINE BOTH MIXTURES THOROUGHLY BUT MIX ONLY UNTIL COMBINED . OVERMIXING WILL CAUSE THE BATTER TO BE TOO TOUGH. POUR INTO A GREASED TUBE PAN AND BAKE FOR ABOUT 1 HOUR, OR UNTIL A KNIFE INSERTED IN THE CENTER COMES OUT CLEAN
NOTE: MUFFINS: THIS BATTER WILL MAKE YOU PERFECT MUFFINS. POUR INTO GREASED MUFFIN PAN AND BAKE ABOUT 20 TO 30 MINUTES. 12 LARGE MUFFINS OR 18 MEDIUM MUFFINS
FRUIT SMOOTHIES BASICALLY, IT CAN BE ANYTHING YOU WANT THROWN IN A BLENDER, BUT HERE IS A TIP THAT WILL TURN YOUR SMOOTHIES FROM GOOD TO FABULOUS: USE FROZEN FRUIT. IN ONE FELL SWOOP, YOU ARE USING FRUIT YOU HAVE ON HAND IN YOUR FREEZER, WHICH IS MUCH SUPERIOR TO FRESH, AND YOU GET ABSOLUTELY NO ICE AND ALL FLAVOR.
1 1/2 CUPS YOGURT, VANILLA OR PLAIN, OR 1/2 SLAB SILKEN TOFU 1 1/2 CUPS FRUIT JUICE (APPLE, ORANGE, PINEAPPLE, CRANBERRY 3 CUPS MIXED FROZEN FRUIT (CHOSE FROM ANYTHING YOU MIGHT HAVE: BANANAS, BERRIES, MELON, GRAPES, ETC….) WHIZ MIXTURE IN THE BLENDER AT HIGH SPEED, ADDING A LITTLE JUICE OR COLD WATER TO THIN IT IF NECESSARY. MAKES 6-7 CUPS.
SALMON TARTARE. 1 1/4 POUNDS SALMON FILET. NO SKIN NO BONES, MINCED 1/4 CUP MINCED RED ONION 1/4 CUP TINY CAPERS 1/4 CUP FINELY CHOPPED DILL 2 TABLESPOONS RED HOT SAUCE 2 TABLESPOONS VODKA 2 TABLESPOONS TOASTED SESAME OIL 2 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL 1 TABLESPOON CRACKED PEPPER 3 TABLESPOONS SOY SAUCE 1/4 CUP LIME OR LEMON JUICE 1 TABLESPOON FINELY GRATED GINGER
MIX ALL INGREDIENTS. LET MARINATE AN HOUR TO TWO HOURS BEFORE SERVING. SERVE OVER GRATED DAIKON, OR ON SMALL ROUNDS OF PUMPERNICKEL BREAD.
SPINACH FRITTATA
1/4 CUP OLIVE OIL 6 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC 1 MEDIUM ONION, QUARTERED 2 LARGE BUNCHES SPINACH OR SWISS CHARD, LEAVES ONLY 1/2 CUP BASIL LEAVES, PACKED 1/2 CUP PARSLEY, LEAVES AND STEMS, PACKED 12 EGGS 2 CUPS MILK (PAREVE: SOY MILK) 1 CUP GRATED PARMESAN OR ANY OTHER STRONG CHEESE (PAREVE: 1 CUP TOFUTTI CREAM CHEESE) SALT AND PEPPER TO TASTE GOOD PINCH NUTMEG
PREHEAT OVEN TO 450 DEGREES. START BY SELECTING A LARGE NON STICK SKILLET. HEAT THE OIL IN THE SKILLET, MINCE THE GARLIC AND ONION IN A FOOD PROCESSOR, AND ADD TO THE HOT OIL, SAUTE JUST A MINUTE OR 2. CHOP THE SPINACH, BASIL AND PARSLEY IN A FOOD PROCESSOR, AND ADD TO THE SKILLET. SAUTEE UNTIL ALL LIQUIDS EVAPORATE, JUST A MINUTE OR 2. IN A MIXING BOWL, BEAT THE EGGS WITH THE MILK, CHEESE AND SEASONINGS, AND ADD EVENLY ON TOP OF THE SPINACH MIXTURE. COOK ABOUT 5 MINUTES ON A MEDIUM HIGH FLAME, UNTIL THE BOTTOM LOOKS FIRM. TRANSFER TO THE OVEN AND COOK ANOTHER 5 MINUTES. CUT IN WEDGES AND SERVE HOT, OR AT ROOM TEMPERATURE
RICOTTA CREAM WITH BERRIES
3 CUPS RICOTTA CHEESE 3 CUPS VANILLA YOGURT
4
CUPS MIXED BERRIES,
LARGER ONES CUT
UP
3 TABLESPOONS CREME DE CASSIS (LIQUOR STORES) 1/4 CUP MAPLE SYRUP OR HONEY 1 TABLESPOON BALSAMIC VINEGAR
1 CUP GRANOLA (STORE-BOUGHT OK. THE BAKER IS I THINK THE BEST BRAND, AND WIDELY AVAILABLE)
MIX THE RICOTTA AND YOGURT IN A BOWL. MIX THE BERRIES, CASSIS, MAPLE SYRUP AND VINEGAR IN ANOTHER BOWL. PREPARE 8 WINE OR MARTINI GLASSES. DIVIDE THE RICOTTA MIXTURE AMONG THE GLASSES. TOP WITH THE BERRY MIXTURE. SPRINKLE THE GRANOLA OVER ALL
PAREVE: INSTEAD OF THE RICOTTA AND VANILLA YOGURT, MIX TOGETHER, IN A BLENDER OR FOOD PROCESSOR: 1 POUND SILKEN TOFU, 1 8 OUNCE CONTAINER TOFUTTI CREAM CHEESE, 1 12 OUNCE CONTAINER TOFUTTI SOUR CREAM, 1/4 CUP SUGAR. PROCEED EXACTLY AS ABOVE Looking Forward to Passover Cooking I grew up in a very modest household but I remember fabulous food at every meal, especially on Pessach. So much so that I actually wait for this time of year to showcase my culinary stars. So, what’s wrong with me? Instead of looking for Pessach to be over, I wait for it to come around. I can hear all of your concerns about cooking for Pessach: “I have to cook with my hands tied behind my back. Groceries are triple the price. I don’t have my regular amenities at my disposal. This is such slavery, I’ll need a week’s vacation to recuperate and get back to normal.” And on and on… Is this your idea of celebrating freedom? On the other hand, I am thinking, “This week is my gastronomic week. On Pessach I can go for broke (a life-long habit I am not even trying to shake; why should I? I credit it in great part for making me the cook and hostess that I am). I get to work with only the best and most seasonal ingredients. Here is my chance to streamline recipes and ingredient selections. I get to stay away from bread and rice and ice cream and pizza and other delicious nemeses because they are halachically verboten.” And on and on…. Goodness knows I have a great incentive to lock up that whole week, and come back to a clean house, tanned and rested. Levana Restaurant runs five Passover programs all over the world; where the food is, by all accounts, a food fantasy come true. Would you believe I have never been at any of them? And I will not anytime soon. Call me a masochist if you would like, but I absolutely love the Passover week at my house, and of course, so do my guests. I will make just one concession; I wish it were not so tiring; but then, the lion’s share of the exhausting part is that we must clean our house thoroughly, whether or not we spend the holidays at home. This holiday, keep these tips in mind to ease your Pessach cooking. On Pessach we naturally turn to all fresh seasonal produce and fresh herbs. I totally ignore all those dreadful mixes manufactured for our “convenience.” As a result, I am stuck with only the best ingredients. Now that quinoa has been approved for Pessach, I make tabouleh and pilaf with it, which liberates me from the compulsory potato dish at every meal. I organize my cooking by making two or three large batches of soup which I then divide and freeze. Rather than serve the same soup at several meals in a row, I serve a different soup at each seder meal, and then take out the rest of the batch for the last days. Same goes for condiments, salad dressings and side dishes. I make a variety in bulk so that the menu is different throughout the holiday. Many Passover desserts hardly suffer from not being made with flour, if at all. I like to make sweet endings such as fruit compote and fruit molds, brownies, nut cake, nut truffles, and meringues. When baking with chocolate, keep in mind that the best European chocolate brands come out of the woodwork on Pessach, allowing your chocolate treats to be real delights. And follow this simple lead: work hard in the kitchen the two days that precede the seder, and the great bulk of your cooking will be done by the time seder night rolls around. Here is one of my favorite seder meals. Last year I showcased these dishes in my classroom at Lincoln Square Synagogue, Williams Sonoma and Bloomingdales, and ended up with many very happy diners: Tilapia-stuffed seabass with watercress horseradish sauce. Roasted garlic artichoke soup. Lamb shanks dry fruit stew. Roasted asparagus. Endive and apple salad with walnut dressing. Almond wine cake with strawberry sauce.
Tilapia-Stuffed Sea Bass 1 large sea trout, butterflied, about 3 1/2 pounds after cleaning. (other options: salmon, snapper, sea bass, carp, striped bass etcY). head cut in large chunks and reserved. 1 2 pounds tilapia, white fish, cod or scrod fillet, thoroughly boned. 1 large carrot, peeled and sliced. 1 medium onion, quartered. 2 ribs celery, peeled and cut in large chunks. 2 eggs. 1/3 cup olive oil. dash nutmeg. salt and pepper to taste. cooking liquid. reserved head. 3 cups water. 2 lemons, sliced. 2 tablespoons peppercorns. 4 bay leaves. salt and pepper to taste. 1 bunch flat parsley.
preheat oven to 375 degrees. clean and dry fish thoroughly. in the food processor, grind all stuffing ingredients to a smooth paste. stuff the fish and fold back. place fish in a pan just big enough to hold it snugly. add all cooking liquid ingredients to the pan. bake 1 hour. let cool completely. strain the liquid over the fish. serve the fish sliced, chilled, with some of the broth (it will thicken slightly during chilling) over each serving. Serve it alone or with watercress horseradish sauce (recipe follows)
Watercress Horseradish Sauce
1 small bunch flat parsley1 bunch watercress, stems and all. 1 cup light mayonnaise 1/4 cup horseradish salt and pepper to taste
Blanch parsley and watercress just a few seconds in boiling water. Squeeze thoroughly. Transfer to food processor with remaining ingredients and blend till smooth.
Roasted Garlic and Artichoke Soup
4 heads garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 10 ounce boxes frozen artichoke hearts 1 large head celery root, grated 1/3 cup olive oil 3 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves only 3 sprigs thyme, leaves only good pinch saffron 1 teaspoon turmeric salt to taste ground pepper to taste 1/4 cup chopped chives
Cut off the points of the garlic heads. Rub with the olive oil. Wrap in foil, cut sides down, and roast in a preheated 400 degree oven until browned and soft. Bring 3 quarts of water to boil in a heavy pot. Squeeze the flesh out of the garlic heads into the pot. Add the artichokes, celery root, olive oil, rosemary, thyme, saffron, turmeric and salt to taste. Bring back to boil, then reduce to medium. Cook, covered, 30 minutes. Puree the soup with an immersion blender. Add ground pepper to taste and chives. Adjust consistency and seasonings.
Lamb Shanks Dry Fruit Stew
8 lamb shanks 1/4 cup vegetable oil. 2 large onions, thinly sliced in a food processor 2 tablespoons sugar. 2 pinches saffron. 1 scant teaspoon turmeric. 1 tablespoon grated ginger 3 sticks cinnamon. 1 teaspoon ground pepper. 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon. 1 1/2 cups pitted prunes, packed 1 1/2 cups dry apricots, packed 1 cup slivered almonds, toasted 15 minutes in a 300 degree oven
Put the lamb shanks in a large heavy pot with 2 quarts (8 cuts) water and bring to a boil. Reduce to medium and cook, covered, 2 hours. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the onions and cook, on a medium high flame, until dark brown. Add the sugar and cook 1 more minute. Add to the lamb, with the saffron, turmeric, ginger, cinnamon sticks and ground pepper, and cook 45 more minutes. Add the ground cinnamon and dry fruit, and cook 15 more minutes. Transfer meat and fruit to a platter. If the liquid in the pot is too thin, reduce at high flame until thickened, and pour over meat. Just before serving, sprinkle with the almonds.
Endive and Apple Salad with Walnut Dressing
3 bunches arugala, washed and thoroughly dried 1 granny smith apple, unpeeled, cored, cut in quarters and sliced 1/2 small red onion, sliced paper thin. 3 endives, cut in thin wedges 1/3 cup chopped toasted walnuts
Place all salad ingredients in salad bowl, adding the walnuts just before serving. Add about 1 cup walnut dressing, or less, and toss.
Toasted Walnut Dressing
1/3 cup toasted walnuts 1 medium shallot, peeled and quartered. 1/4 cup walnut oil 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1/4 cup red wine vinegar. 1/3 cup dry sherry. salt and pepper to taste.
Mix all ingredients in blender or food processor, until smooth and perfectly emulsified
Almond Wine Cake
6 egg yolks. 1 1/2 cups sugar. 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil. 1 1/2 cups potato starch) 1 tbsp baking powder 3/4 cup dry red wine. 2 tbsps orange zest. 3 tbsps brandy or rum. 1 1/4 cups ground almonds (filberts, walnuts or pecans o.k.) 6 egg whites + pinch salt, beaten until stiff but not dry.
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. With a hand mixer, cream yolks and sugar till mixture falls in ribbons. Add oil and mix. Combine flour and baking powder in a bowl. Combine wine, orange zest and brandy in another bowl. Add flour mixture alternately with wine mixture, beginning and ending with flour, mixing each time just until combined. Add nuts and mix till combined. Carefully fold in whites. Bake in greased tube pan for 1 hour or until the point of a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve alone or with strawberry sauce.
Strawberry Sauce 1 10 ounce bag frozen unsweetened strawberries 1 cup cranberry juice. 1/4 cup black currant or raspberry liqueur 1/4 cup lemon juice. 1 tbsp potato starch, mixed with a little water until dissolved.
Bring all but the last ingredient to a boil. Add corn starch mixture and cook, stirring, until just thickened. Puree in a food processor. Cool completely before serving.
PURIM TREATS: EDIBLE
GIFTS
Since I only have eyes for kosher, homemade and natural, Purim is perfect time to send a select few some fabulous, homemade, fun and useful goodies (did you say fun and useful? Of course! Absolutely not an oxymoron). Do you think you have just found the perfect chocolate chip cookie recipe? Or the perfect raspberry vinegar recipe? Or the best chutney recipe? Well then, be a pal and share it with your friends! I don’t want to rain on anyone’s parade but I think homemade gifts will beat some perplexing …uhh, confections…we find in our baskets. The thing with me is I never lose my head when making a menu, not even when the menu is as simple as what to offer for shalach manos. This year, for your Purim baskets, let your friends sample some of your homemade creations. Why serve junk when you can, as I always do, start with serious ingredients and end up with fun results? Here are a few tried-and-true tips on making delectable shalach manos. Some baskets may not be retrieved right away, so start by not making anything that demands immediate refrigeration, such as a meat or fish-based sauce, a chocolate truffle, a cheesecake. Leave the fragile treats such as lace cookies or fruit pie for that time when we are going straight to our hosts and when the goodies will not suffer in transit. Deal with items that are sturdy and not temperature-sensitive, and which travel well. Include a card with the recipe. You can also include a card with suggestions on how to enjoy your gift, such as a recipe for teriyaki salmon with your jar of homemade teriyaki sauce.
Before
I share some of my favorite edible presents with you, let me reassure
the reluctant or harried hostess that even if she is totally reticent
about “manufacturing” her own confections, there are some perfectly
healthy and no-nonsense treats with which she can fill a basket: whole
foods such as dry fruit and nuts; high quality tea or
coffee; a
good wine
or liquor bottle; a beautiful pineapple
Whether you fill your baskets with homemade goodies or healthy, store-bought treats, I leave the presentation entirely up to you. I must emphasize that when you give something wonderful, you should obsess much less about the packaging than about what is inside. Let all the promise be found in, not around, the gift. I guarantee you will never never again have the heart or the poor judgment to get the store-bought version. I also guarantee, with no less authority, your sinuses will be cleared for the rest of the year! The following selections are very simple and makes a dozen gifts each.
RASPBERRY VINEGAR: 3 quarts white vinegar. 9 12 ounce packages frozen unsweetened raspberries. (18 cups)
Heat the vinegar and the raspberries until very hot in a large stainless steel pot, 2 pots if you must. Do not quite bring to boil: just as soon as it begins to bubble, turn off the heat. Let the mixture cool. Strain into a glass jar, pressing gently on the raspberries with a wooden spoon to extract all the juice but not the pulp. Pour into a dozen pint jars. If desired, add a few fresh or frozen raspberries to each jar. Let the flavors develop four days before using.
Makes 12 pints.
CHAI TEA SPICE MIXTURE: add a good pinch or two of this mixture to a cup of strong tea, with milk and sugar to taste
Place all the spices in a large glass jar. Mix thoroughly, shaking the closed jar vigorously or simply stirring the mixture with a large spoon until well combined. Pout the mixture into a dozen (or a few more) 4 ounce jars. Add 2 cinnamon sticks to each jar for garnish.
Makes twelve 4 oz. jars.
TERYAKI SAUCE: 6 cups toasted sesame oil. 2 cups olive oil. 2 cups minced fresh ginger. 4 cups fresh lime juice (lemon juice o.k.) 4 cups soy sauce or more, to taste. 4 cups dry sherry (liquor store, not the dreadful supermarket variety) 1/3 cup ground black pepper. 1 cup bottled hot sauce or to taste. 3 tablespoons ground cloves 3 cups honey.
Mix all marinade ingredients thoroughly. Carefully pour (using a funnel if necessary) into 12 pint size jars.
Makes 12 pints.
APRICOT PEACH CHUTNEY: 8 1/4 cups cider vinegar 12 cups sugar grated zest of 12 lemons (peel the lemons with a vegetable peeler, and throw all the peels in the food processor; process for a minute or two) 1/3 cup cayenne 1/2 cup curry powder 1/3 cup salt 4 large onions, peeled and quartered 12 cups dried apricots, packed 12 cups dried peaches, packed 6 3-inch pieces ginger, peeled
Put the vinegar, sugar, lemon zest, cayenne, curry, salt and 10 1/2 quarts (42 cups) water in a heavy stainless steel pot, 2 pots if you don’t have anything so large, and bring to a boil. Grind the onions, dried fruit and ginger coarsely in the food processor, using the pulse button. Add to the pot, and bring to a boil again. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, covered, for about 30 minutes. The mixture will thicken as it cools. Cool completely, then pour into a dozen (or a few more) perfectly clean wide-mouth glass jars. Makes 12 pint jars.
ZUCCHINI WALNUT BREAD: 9 cups flour. 2 1/4 cups sugar. 1 1/2 cups chopped walnuts. 3 tablespoon baking powder. 1 tablespoon salt. 12 large eggs 1 1/2 cups oil. 6 cups unpeeled grated zucchini, packed (use the food processor for grating) 3 tablespoons grated lemon zest
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Thoroughly combine flour, sugar, walnuts, baking powder and salt in a mixing bowl. Thoroughly combine eggs, oil, zucchini and lemon peel in another bowl. Combine both mixtures thoroughly but mix only it is combined. Overmixing will cause the bread to become too tough. Pour into a dozen small greased loaf pans and bake for about 40 minutes, or until a knife inserted in the center comes out clean. Makes 12 small loaves.
To view the dessert line, click the picture. POTATO LATKES: CONQUERING THE
FEAR OF FRYING You may have guessed it: I have nothing nice to say about frying. Years ago, while fishing for a stubborn schnitzel in the frying pan, I burned my hand. While a scar reminds me of my aversion to frying, I will be the first to admit that there is no Chanukah without latkes. In my catering career and for my friends and family at home, I have made thousands upon thousands of them and always watch them disappear at a flatteringly alarming rate. There is no doubt about it: latkes are a wonderful treat, and once we enter a house where their heavenly fragrance wafts through the kitchen, even a Spartan dieter will sheepishly watch his or her noble resolution turn to dust. Frying (stir-frying does not fall into this category, as it requires very little oil and minimal cooking) is the nemesis of every health-conscious cook, me included. However, on special occasions such as Chanukah that call for fried foods, I follow these guidelines to efficiently and safely fry holiday treats.
Keep it dry: Too much moisture will steam food instead of frying it, yielding soggy results. Before you begin, be sure to dry whatever you are frying thoroughly with paper towels. Keep it thick: Use a firm (not runny) potato batter to form thick patties, which will absorb much less oil than thinner ones. The outside will be crisp and the center will be tender, yet cooked through. Keep it hot: Less-than-hot oil will seep into your food, making it indelibly greasy. If you add oil to the pan while frying, chances are the oil was not hot enough to begin with. If you wait for the oil to get hot, you will need to add very little, if any, to finish frying an entire batch of food. How hot is hot enough? Drop a smidgen of batter into the oil. If it sizzles and rises to the surface, the oil is hot and ready for frying. Keep it steady: Do not crowd the pan. First of all, you will make handling the food more difficult. Also, crowding will bring down the temperature of the oil. Adding what you are frying at steady intervals ensures that the oil has time to return to the desired temperature. Keep it lean: Rather than using spatulas or slotted spoons which sop up unnecessary oil, work with two forks when removing items from the pan. Lift each fried item with a fork on each side, and hold it vertically for a second or two over the frying pan: You will be surprised by how much oil drips off it. Immediately place the items on a plate lined with several layers of paper towels, which will absorb any remaining unwanted grease. Keep it white: Peeled potatoes oxidate when exposed to air and turn an unappealing gray color. So when making latkes (or a potato kugel), get everything ready before your peel and grate the potatoes, adding them immediately to the otherwise finished batter. Keep it fresh and hot: If you are entertaining a large group, it won’t be enormous fun spending the afternoon frying while everyone is having a good time. If you must fry in advance, follow all the above guidelines, but fry each item until it is ninety percent cooked through, no more. Store it in a shallow pan in one layer. You can also place the latkes in the pan vertically, like a deck of cards; you will be able to fit quite a few in a pan in this position (again, one layer). Cover tightly. Refrigerate or freeze, depending on how long in advance you are preparing the dish. Reheat uncovered, at about 350*F, for fifteen to twenty minutes, or until heated through.
Levana’s Perfect Potato Latkes (yields 24 latke).
Ingedients: 1 cup flour 4 eggs 1 medium onion, grated in a food processor salt and pepper to taste pinch nutmeg 8 large Idaho or russet potatoes, peeled
Heat
1/3 inch oil in a heavy frying pan until very hot. While the oil is
heating, place the flour, eggs, onion, salt and pepper, and nutmeg in a
bow
Variations: Vegetable latkes: Replace the potatoes with a mixture of zucchini, carrots and parsnips. Add seasonings of your choice such as oregano, garlic and basil. Sweet potato latkes: Substitute sweet potatoes for the regular potatoes, and add brown sugar, cinnamon and ginger to taste. Potato Kugel: Add 1/3 cup of vegetable oil to the potato latke batter. Pour the batter into a greased loaf or square pan, and bake uncovered in a preheated 375 degree F oven for one hour or until the top is golden brown.
As
it is also a minhag to eat dairy for Chanukah, be sure to see the
following recipes plus the ones under the header The Art of the Brunch!
Think You Don't Have Time to Cook? Levana Has the Solution: In Short Order.
Being
a kallah involves more than picking out the patterns of dinnerware; the
dinner doesn’t get on the plates by itself. A
central
In the DVD, Levana prepares over 30 recipes that include main dishes, soups, appetizers, sauces, dressings, drinks, and desserts on the spot, illustrating how many different delicious results can be produced by following the principles of In Short Order. When my daughters watched with me, they wished they had been part of the live audience at the demo because they got to taste so many fabulous dishes prepared right before their eyes. The recipes in this book and DVD are not the traditional single approach to preparing a specific dish but guiding principles of how adaptable a single recipe can be. For example, Levana shows how something quick and easy like crêpes can yield so many variations. She begins by presenting the very simple recipe for the basic crêpe batter. Then she proceeds to show how the basic can be transformed . The filling options show how amazingly versatile crêpes can be, from the basic jam, cheese, or fruit filling to a topping of caviar, as well as additions of savory herbs, delicious and nutrition-packed fillings of spinach, vegetables, or chicken. She are offers even more adaptations in the book with options to modify the crêpe batter for a dessert and for an eggs-free diet.
Levana shows the same versatility combined with utter simplicity in her 1-2-3 chicken dishes with fish variations. If you are tired of bland or dried out chicken and are looking for an easy, no-fail approach, this is just perfect. I’ve already made the garlic chicken and a potato version, both of which were prepared quickly and finished quickly by my family. She also includes the directions for making this dish with celery, mushroom, fennel, sweet potato, or Swiss chard. The chicken is made with no added fat at all, but produces a wonderfully flavorful gravy. Fish lovers just need to add a bit of olive oil and salt and reduce the cooking time.
.“Whenever there is an opportunity to save cooking or prepping time and still eat well with minimal or no loss of nutrition, I am the first to take it,” Levana declares. Everyone wants to save time, but the key here is to know what type of shortcuts work and what causes greater losses in taste, nutrition, or cost than saving. Levana’s methods show the right way do the minimum to maximize results in both nutrition and flavor. This book clearly explains what to avoid and what to do:
Don’t compromise on the quality of the ingredients; avoid imitation flavors and other foods altered from their natural state.
Don’t use mixes.
Don’t buy prepared foods, dressings, or sauces; you can make your own so easily.
Don’t buy individual packets marketed for your convenience.
Don’t buy grated cheese; you get added cost with diminished flavor.
Do keep your kitchen stocked with key ingredients you need to whip up a meal in no time.
Do use frozen fruits and vegetable to cut prep time when preparing soups and smoothies.
Do use quality frozen fish.
Do make sauces and dressing ahead of time to have on hand.
Do time your cooking to your advantage.
Do equip your kitchen with the right types of pots, pans, and other tools.
Do use a crock pot to have dinner ready and waiting for you.
Do use a food processor to cut down prep time for chopping, slicing, and grating.
For those who are concerned about their consumption of fats and unnecessary calories, there is comprehensive nutrition guide that covers not only the calories and total fat for each item but break up the information into saturated fat, mono –unsaturated fat, poly-unsaturated fat, as well as the cholesterol, carbohydrate, protein, fiber, and sodium content. Fish may be fish, but your first choice of fish may have ten time the fat as another variety. How you cook it makes a difference too, as you can see by comparing the numbers for the breaded and fried option with those of the broiled. Plus, Levana offer an approach to eating sensibly in her “own diet tools,” included in her chapter called “The Basics.” She sums it up as follows: “The single greatest diet and nutrition tool is behavior modification, and the single greatest behavior modification tool consists in acquiring a better knowledge of – and establishing a relationship with – what we are ingesting, for our sake, as well as that of everyone entrusted in our care.” This book is the first step toward acquiring that knowledge and establishing that relationship to make food that is both good to eat and good for us.
Want to know the secret to perfectly cooked, moist chicken? It’s all in the technique, as Levana explains in this excerpt that demonstrates the approach to virtually effortless cooking of In Short Order.
Make-ahead sauces for roast salmon or chicken No store bought condiment or dressing comes anywhere close to these homemade
ones. Make the following preparations whenever you have just a few minutes at your disposal, they will last you days, even weeks—provided you never ever double-dip (shudder!)—and will enhance the plainest piece of fish, chicken or meat. Use a different condiment and get different results each time. This, by the way, is what I do every weekday at home.
I assure you that even if you don’t have on hand any of these condiments, you will still do very well serving the dish totally unadorned or with just a dollop of Dijon mustard, à la Française. Nothing added will beat adding the wrong thing each time. For example: throwing in a bouillon cube, bottled dressing, or garlic powder, my nemesis. Recently at a demo someone asked “If I run out of garlic powder, can I settle for fresh?” Need I say more?
Harissa: For hot food lovers only! It leaves store-bought versions in the dust. Makes about 3 cups. 3/4 cup red pepper flakes 2 cups very hot water 1 bunch cilantro, stems off. 1 cup tightly packed. 1 head garlic, cloves separated and peeled 1 cup olive oil 1 1/4 cups paprika 3 tablespoons cumin Salt and pepper to taste Soak the pepper flakes in the water and set aside while you get all other ingredients ready. Place all remaining ingredients in a food processor and grind fine. Add red pepper flake mixture and grind a few more seconds. Store in a glass jar.
Cocktail sauce: Low in calorie and very high in flavor, it goes beautifully with smoked turkey or poached chicken breasts. Makes about 2 cups. 1 cup ketchup 1/2 cup Dijon mustard 1/2 cup prepared white horseradish Mix all ingredients and store refrigerated in a glass jar.
Wasabi sauce: I love the clean taste of wasabi and all Asian ingredients, always so lean and so intensely flavored. Makes about 1 cup. 1/4 cup wasabi powder 2 tablespoons sugar or a non caloric dry equivalent (splenda, stevia, etc. ) 1 cup low fat mayonnaise (or 1/2 pound silken tofu plus 1/4 cup olive oil) Salt and pepper to taste Place all ingredients in a food processor, and process until smooth. Store refrigerated in a glass jar.
Olive sauce: How could you miss with such a great flavor lineup? Enjoy it even by itself on some good toasted bread. Good olives, please!
1/2 cup pitted Moroccan or other good black olives 1 cup basil leaves, packed 6 large cloves garlic 1/2 cup sun dried tomatoes, rinsed, packed 1/4 cup capers 1/2 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons wine vinegar Ground pepper to taste Cream all ingredients in a food processor. Store in a glass jar in refrigerator. Makes one pint.
You can use these sauces as dips to any cut up vegetables, raw or steamed or to add some zing to your regular sandwich fillings. These condiments also perfectly complement fish, London broil, and chicken. Try them out with the main dishes below:
Roast salmon: Preheat the oven at 500ºF. Roast a whole side of salmon, skin off, bones out, 20 minutes. For salmon slivers or steaks, roast 12 minutes at 450ºF. Alternatively, heat a few drops olive oil in a nonstick skillet, and when it is very hot, add the salmon slivers or steaks, and sauté 2-3 minutes on each side.
Seared tuna: Heat a few drops olive oil in a nonstick skillet and let it get really hot. Sprinkle sea salt and coarsely ground pepper on both sides of inch-thick tuna steaks, and sear 1-2 minutes on each side. Let the steaks cool briefly, then slice them thinly against the grain.
Roasted tilapia: I just love tilapia: delicious, economical, widely available, lean, nutritious. What more should we ask for? Preheat the oven to 375ºF, spray the fillets on each side with vegetable spray and place them in a pan just large enough to fit them snuggly. Bake about 20 minutes. Alternatively, heat a few drops olive oil in a skillet, and when it is very hot, add the fillets and sauté 1-2 minutes on each side.
London broil: About 1 1/2 pounds, 1 inch thick (butterflied minute roast will work perfectly too). Preheat the broiler. Place the meat in a pan just wide enough to fit it snuggly. Broil directly under the flame, 7 to 8 minutes on each side for medium rare, a little less for rare. If you like it well done, please don’t choose a steak dinner, it just comes out too tough and uninteresting!
Roast chicken: The “nothing” chicken, my kids still call it after all these years, their favorite. Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Place a 3 1/2 pound chicken breast side down, in a baking pan just large enough to fit it snuggly, and bake 1 hour. Turn the chicken over, breast side up, and roast another 15 minutes.If you are using chicken parts, keep it at the same temperature, 45 minutes skin side down, plus 15 minutes skin side up. Don’t worry if you can’t serve it hot. It is delicious at room temperature too.
Poached chicken breasts: The best ever, moist and plump. The secret is to 1. leave them thick, no flattening or pounding; 2. not bring them to boiling point but cook them in gently simmering water so they don’t toughen; and 3. not overcook them so they don’t toughen and dry out. Remember, the residual heat left in them will complete what little cooking is missing, so don’t worry if you can still see a drop of pink in the center, it will disappear and cook to perfection. Bring water to boil in a saucepan. Turn the flame to medium-low, add the chicken cutlets, and cook covered about 15 minutes.
One more way to get perfect chicken breasts: Preheat the oven to 375ºF, place the cutlets in a baking dish just wide enough to fit them snuggly, cover tightly with foil and bake 30 minutes, or a drop more, until most of the center is no longer pink.
In Short Order, as well as Levana’s other cookbooks can be ordered directly from Levana’s website: www.levanacooks.com. For orders of large quantities or for fundraisers, please email levana@levanacooks.com.
Levana Kirschenbaum is co-owner of the upscale Levana restaurant, located on the Upper West Side. She is a master chef and a cooking teacher, and gets countless devoted fans for her fearless, practical and nutritious approach to cooking. A native of Morocco, she draws on extensive international culinary influences to develop wonderful whole-foods dishes. She gives weekly cooking demos at her classroom at Lincoln Square Synagogue, and gets cooking demo engagements around the country. She has published "Levana's Table: kosher cooking for everyone," "Levana Cooks Dairy-Free!” and the book-DVD set based on her demo series, "In Short Order". Go onto her website to find out more about Levana, www.levanacooks.com , or e-mail her at levana@levanacooks.com
Delightful Summer Dishes
Dreading the heat generated by heating devices during the dog days of summer? Or dreading the heavy, cholesterol laden fare of the usual barbecue? Ah, this is when our creativity comes to the rescue, and rewards us with a feast. Cold foods, when properly and imaginatively composed, are so wonderful that I have no qualms whatsoever serving them a good part of the spring and all summer, even in the comfort of my own kitchen, to distinguished company. The feeling of settling for a cold meal is totally foreign to me and, it seems, to all my guests and students who clamor for more such menus. I just know I can’t miss with some guidelines foremost in mind when matching flavors - seasonal; colorful; vibrant; assertive; light; low maintenance. Fresh cold foods render pesky Shabbos heating pads totally superfluous, allowing room only for the unobtrusive crockpot for those who must have their cholent, and leaving the house and those dining there nice and cool.
Needless to say, as always when composing recipes and menus, I only have eyes for whole foods, so I end up with happy and grateful guests. I give demos on cold foods all the time, and the following dishes are some of my great favorites. The best part is they are so simple to prepare.
QUINOA WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES AND OLIVES
Where has quinoa been all our lives? It has been around for ever, and is a staple in many parts of the world like South America. Only recently has it gained a more dignified place in this country. Not a grain in the strict sense of the term, it is permissible on Pesach, an allowance I totally cash in on. There is nothing I don’t make with it, crepes, soup, salads, you name it, even cookies. Make sure you rinse it very well, to rid it of the saponin, a natural product farmers spray on it to keep the birds (who also appreciate the taste of quinoa) away. Please note I have not listed salt in my ingredients, as the dish has enough salty ingredients in it to amply season the dish.
2 cups quinoa (health food stores) 3 cups water 1 cup dry white wine 1/4 cup olive oil 1 large onion 1 bunch flat parsley 1/2 sun dried tomatoes, packed, rinsed, squeezed dry and cut into slivers 1/2 cup niçoise olives, or other very good quality olives, the smaller the better. 3 tablespoons capers 1/4 cup basil leaves, packed, cut into ribbons Ground pepper to taste
Place quinoa in fine-mesh strainer. Rinse under cold water thoroughly, mixing constantly with your fingers, until the water runs clear. Let drain. Bring the water and wine to boil in a heavy pot. Add the drained quinoa, reduce the flame to medium and cook, covered, about 15 minutes, or until all liquids are absorbed and each grain starts opening slightly, showing a little white “bud”. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a heavy pot. Coarsely grind the onion, garlic and parsley, and add to the oil. Sauté until translucent. Add the tomatoes, olives, capers, basil and pepper, and sauté 1-2 more minutes. Add this mixture to the quinoa and toss thoroughly. Serve hot.
ICED MINTED HONEYDEW AND KIWI SOUP.
I recently got no ends of compliments for a delightful bracelet I bought at some flea market, and the best part of the thrill is, I paid for it a price too ridiculously low to disclose. I feel very much the same way with this luxurious soup, which requires no cooking, gets whipped up in minutes, and tastes and looks as if you had slaved on it. If you think you won’t have time to chill the soup, then start with very cold ingredients, but do not add ice cubes, which will dilute the taste!
1 large honeydew melon, peeled, seeded and cubed 6 kiwis, peeled and halved 1/2 cup fresh lime juice 1/2 cup mint leaves, packed 1/4 cup maple syrup, or a little more to taste 3 cups white grape juice
Blend all ingredients in batches in a blender or food processor until smooth. Add a little more grape juice if it needs a little thinning. Chill. Serve topped with a slice of lime and a sprig of mint.
BLACKENED LONDON BROIL OVER MIXED GREENS
You will love this spice mixture on lots of other goodies: chicken breasts, salmon, tuna, tofu, Portobello, so go ahead and make a larger batch, and refrigerate the unused portion. You will be delighted to find it all ready for you when preparing your next meal. Only I beg you, do not put any salt in it, so you can use it freely on your meat dishes. You can always add salt where needed.
Blackened spice mixture: 6 large cloves garlic. 3 tablespoons paprika. 1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or more, to taste 1 tablespoon cumin. 1 tablespoon oregano. 3 bay leaves Ground pepper to taste. 3 tablespoons fine cornmeal 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 London broil, about 1” thick, 2 1/2 to 3 pounds
Grind all spices. Process ingredients in a food processor until a smooth paste forms. Coat the meat in the spice mixture, using it all up. Wrap the meat in plastic and marinate overnight, or at least 2 hours.
Preheat broiler. Broil close to the flame, about 7 minutes on each side. Meat will be medium rare. Let the meat rest 10 minutes, then slice thinly on a bias. Serve on top of your favorite mixed greens very lightly tossed with a little olive oil and cider vinegar. No need to do more with your greens; the meat is highly seasoned.
SALMON MOUSSE
This dish was born on the day I ruined the fish course for a large dinner by using a tiny and cute but treacherously hot pepper. (Habanero: I still shudder at the mere mention of the name!) Rather than sit and cry at the thought of the beautiful dish I had to discard, I carefully scanned my pantry and my refrigerator. This recipe is a real showcase for the wizardry of the food processor and is a rare case where I use canned foods, not to save money but to get something natural and fantastic in a pinch. I love the canned salmon. Just be certain that it is red salmon. And make sure the tuna is solid white. Don’t even say a word about the anchovies, and don’t cringe at the idea of using the skin and bones; they will disappear, leaving only the lovely smooth gelatinous texture we want for all molded dishes. Your ingredients must be bone-dry or you will end up with a runny mess.
1 1/2 cups all-natural potato flakes (health food stores) 3/4 cup hot water 1 15-ounce pound can red salmon, drained and squeezed thoroughly dry 1 6-ounce can solid white tuna packed in oil, undrained 1 2-ounce can flat anchovy filets, thoroughly rinsed and squeezed dry 1 8-ounce container Tofutti cream cheese 2 roasted red peppers, bottled ok, patted thoroughly dry 6 sprigs dill, fronds and stems 1/2 small red onion 2 tablespoons green peppercorns, drained and patted dry 1 tablespoon lemon zest 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon paprika Good pinch cayenne Good pinch nutmeg
Mix the flakes with the boiling water in a bowl. Quickly mix with a fork until the flakes lose their dry look; the mixture will resemble play dough. Transfer the potato mixture to a food processor with all other ingredients. Grind the mixture, in batches if necessary, to a perfectly smooth paste. Cream all ingredients in a food processor until very smooth. Pour into a greased mold lined with plastic, or simply pour directly into the bowl you will be serving the mousse in. Chill thoroughly. If you used a mold, lift the plastic gently by the sides, the loaf will come right out. Invert onto a platter and peel off the plastic. Slice or spread on bread or crackers, garnished with capers or gherkins
BLUEBERRY CAKE WITH ALMOND STREUSEL
All of you readers whom we used to summer with in the Catskills all those years, I can see your smile. How many batches of this delightful cake have we made? No, I don’t feel too old (yet!) to go blueberry-picking and running home with the loot for eating out of hand, or making soup, cake and vinegar. I am going yet again, with a straw hat on my head and a pail on my arm, one day this summer G-d willing with some other blueberry addicts: Yum! Please use a real, not disposable, cake pan, and enjoy the immense difference. My daughter just told me when I said I hope she used a real pan for a cake she recently made: “Come on, Mommy, I am your daughter, how can I possibly use a disposable pan?” Way to go!
3/4 cup oil 1 1/2 cups sugar 4 eggs 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 tablespoon grated orange zest 3 cups all purpose flour (whole wheat pastry or spelt OK) 2 tablespoons triple sec, kirsch or cassis (liquor stores) 3 cup blueberries, perfectly dry
Streusel almond topping: 1/2 cup almonds 1/4 cup oil 1/2 cup flour 1/4 cup brown sugar 2 teaspoons cinnamon.
Preheat oven to 350 ºF. Grease and flour a 10” tube pan, or an 11x14 pan. Cream oil, sugar and eggs in a food processor until light and fluffy. Add all ingredients except blueberries, and pulse 3-4 times, until just combined. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Very gently mix the blueberries in with a spoon. Pour into the prepared pan. Grind the streusel ingredients in a food processor until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Sprinkle over the cake, using it all up. Bake about one hour, or until a knife inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean.
Levana Kirschenbaum is co-owner of the upscale Levana restaurant, located on the Upper West Side. She is a master chef and a cooking teacher, and gets countless devoted fans for her fearless, practical and nutritious approach to cooking. A native of Morocco, she draws on extensive international culinary influences to develop wonderful whole-foods dishes. She gives weekly cooking demos at her classroom at Lincoln Square Synagogue, and gets cooking demo engagements around the country. She has published "Levana's Table: kosher cooking for everyone", "Levana Cooks Dairy-Free!” and a pamphlet-dvd set based on her demo series called "In Short Order". Go onto her website to find out more about Levana, www.levanacooks.com , or e-mail her at levana@levanacooks.com
Don't Skip Dessert.
I refuse to talk about diet desserts, or diet anything for that matter. Isn’t diet on my mind, just as it is on everyone’s? Yes, naturally. Constantly. As a food chemist of sorts, I constantly ask myself the same questions, and it is these questions - and the answers I come up with - that are my constant guide for developing healthy dishes.
The rewards of bringing such an “honest” mindset to bear when you set out to cook and bake are infinite, and will become second nature to you. We are satisfied after a reasonable helping of something genuine and wholesome and, having hit the spot, we stop searching: it is true of all things in life, and of course food is no exception. Naturally less addictive because they contain much less sugar, fat, and salt, homemade and healthy desserts are much superior in every way imaginable. Remember, a finished homemade product made from real ingredients is always much greater than the sum of its parts, however modest.
CHOCOLATE TRUFFLES
Best quality chocolate please! No heimish brands: I won’t name them out of some solidarity for my fellow merchants, but I trust you will recognize them, and ignore them. In a pinch, price club brands are ok. Shmerling, Poulain, Noblesse, Suchard, Callebaut are all excellent choices.
Makes about 3 dozen truffles.
1/2 cup natural margarine (no transfats, un-hydrogenated: health food stores) 2 cups semisweet chocolate chips or chopped chocolate. 1/4 cup cocoa powder 1/2 cup confectioner’s sugar
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